La grana cochinilla
Red, a hue synonymous with intensity and passion, has carried varied meanings throughout history. In Oaxaca, Mexico, this color takes on profound significance rooted in the Mixtec and Zapotec traditions, where cochineal, a tiny scale parasite found on nopal cacti, served as a source of vibrant red dye.
The female cochineal, residing in a waxy nest on the cactus, produces red carminic acid as a defense mechanism. During the era of the Mixtecs and Zapoetcs, the process of harvesting cochineal was a meticulous and ceremonial affair. It took approximately three to four months for the cochineal to mature after seeding, and the harvesting itself was conducted with great care.
In modern times, the process still involves brushing or scraping off the cochineal from the nopal leaves and spreading them out in the sun to dry. To expedite the drying process, some farmers may use ovens or immerse the insects in hot water, also called ‘tazmascalli’, causing them to shrivel up and lose about a third of their weight.
Known as Nocheztly, or "blood of nopal," by the Aztecs, who demanded large quantities as tribute from Mixtec and Zapotec producers, grana was deeply intertwined with their identity. Beyond textiles, leather, and feathers, it found use in cosmetics and wound healing, embodying the color of the sun in Aztec symbolism, linked to rituals of blood, death, and sacrifice.
The spread of cochineal dye worldwide traces back to Spanish explorers during the Americas' colonization. Recognizing its vibrant color and colorfast qualities, cochineal became a sought-after commodity, shaping fashion, art, and culture across Europe. Its historical significance remains a testament to the intricate dance between culture, trade, and the pursuit of enduring, vibrant color.
Globally, red, scarlet, and purple textiles historically symbolized wealth and power, reserved for royalty and religious ceremonies. Cochineal dye, offering enduring reds and purples, became a game-changer.
At Madda Studio, cochineal is one of the most frequently used natural pigments. Our primary supplier is Jose Manuel Lorea, a local cochineal farmer in Oaxaca. When the dried insects are delivered to the studio, Lorena and Marivel, who oversee the dyeing process, grind them into a smooth powder. This powder is then mixed with water and citric acid, which helps enhance the vibrancy of the resulting hue. The mordanted high-quality wool and cotton skeins are simmered in this mixture. For purple hues, a second dye bath of indigo is used, while for orange tones, the skeins can be soaked in a flower bath with beautiful cempasuchil.
The dyeing process is careful, and the proportions of the ingredients play a crucial role in determining the intensity and vibrancy of the colors achieved. Once dyed and dried, the yarn typically continues its journey to the nearby village of Teotitlan. There, it is skillfully woven into carpets and accessories, either based on designs by Madda herself or as per the preferences of clients. If you’re curious about Madda's designs you'll find most of them here on our webpage where it is also possible to download the product catalog.
